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Having completed their journey from their exotic homelands and once approved by the VALRHONA jury of taste experts, the beans begin yet another journey, one that will transform them into a chocolate worthy of the VALRHONA name. Here are the seven basic steps in our chocolate-making process. Step by step, we develop flavor and texture, creating the most refined chocolates.
The role of the Master-Roaster is to dry the remaining moisture in the beans and to develop their aromas. Beans are heated in the roaster at a temperature of 120 to 140ƒC (250 to 285ƒF) for 20 to 30 minutes. Each type of bean requires specific treatment. The fine criollo and trinitario beans are roasted at a lower temperature than the forastero, for example, for an optimum aroma development.
A badly executed roasting can introduce an unpleasant burned taste.
After cooling, the beans are moved to a crushing machine and reduced to particles of a few millimeters in size. The body of the bean is separated from the husk using a screen through which hot air is blown. The grains obtained are called nibs.
Another VALRHONA secret is in balancing the amount of each variety of cocoa bean. Quantities of different kinds of beans are weighed according to precise recipes and mixed carefully before being transferred to the grinders.
Steel rollers grind the nibs, and under the double effect of grinding and heat, they are transformed into a liquid paste. This is the cocoa mass or cocoa liquor and is composed of cocoa butter (a natural fat) and the dry matter of the bean. The cocoa liquor is mixed with sugar (and milk for a milk chocolate). The paste is refined so that its particle size is reduced from 75 to less than 15 microns. Our taste buds can perceive particles that start at 20 microns.
This is an essential moment is the preparation of a fine chocolate. Conching eliminates all traces of moisture, excess acidity, and undesirable flavors, while completely diffusing the cocoa butter. It is here that the aromas breathe forth. A velvety, soft paste with an absolutely intoxicating perfume is the result.
Conching takes its name from the vats used, the conches, which hold several tons of chocolate paste, maintained at a controlled temperature. In these conches, paddles mix the paste continuously. Ordinary chocolate is conched for a few hours. The Grands Crus from VALRHONA can be conched for as long as three days. An insufficient conching produces an "aggressive" chocolate, with too much acid and indifferent flavor.
During conching, the chocolate paste is maintained at a temperature higher than the melting point of cocoa butter. It is now necessary to bring the temperature down so that the butter will crystallize to form a fine and homogenous mass. The delicate process of crystallization is carried out by successive cooling and reheating. This is tempering. The gloss, the crispness, and the keeping qualities of the chocolate depend on successful tempering.
Whether destined for bars or confectioner's couverture blocks, the technique is the same: molds pass along a conveyor belt and are filled with the tempered chocolate. After passing through a cooling tunnel, the chocolate solidifies to the point where it can be unmolded.
After tempering, the chocolate can also be used to coat the fillings of covered chocolates, for example, the pralinÈs, marzipans, or dry fruit. After coating, the chocolate passes through a cooling tunnel where it solidifies.
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